Door & Entryway Spray Finishing
Your front door is the one surface every visitor looks at from three feet away. We spray it to a factory-smooth finish — including sidelights, transoms, jambs and casing.
Learn moreA kitchen that looks new, using the cabinet boxes you already have. Sprayed, not brushed, and finished off-site so your kitchen is not a workshop for a fortnight.
Most kitchens people dislike are structurally fine. The boxes are solid, the layout works, the drawers run true — the finish is simply dated, or worn through around the handles and above the range. Replacing all of it is an enormous expense to solve a surface problem.
Refinishing changes the colour and the finish while keeping the carcasses, the layout and usually the hardware. It costs a fraction of replacement, it takes about a week rather than a month, and there is no demolition, no new countertop template, and no skip in the driveway.
The reason refinishing has a mixed reputation is that it is frequently done badly. Cabinets that were brushed in place, over grease, without deglossing, will chip around the handles within a year and confirm every fear people have about the idea. Done properly — degreased, sanded, bonded, sprayed with a coating built for cabinetry — it holds up like a factory finish, because it essentially is one.
Doors and drawer fronts come to our Glendale shop. The boxes are finished in place with the openings masked, so you keep using the kitchen while the fronts are away.
Every door and drawer front is numbered against a map of your kitchen so each one returns to the opening it came from. Hinges and handles come off and are bagged by location. Nothing gets mixed up, and nothing gets refitted a few millimetres out.
Kitchen cabinets carry years of cooking oil, especially above the range and around the handles. This is the step that gets skipped and it is the step that causes failures, because no coating bonds to grease. Everything gets degreased before it gets sanded.
Surfaces are sanded to a uniform key, chips and dings are filled, and a bonding primer suited to the substrate goes on — timber, MDF, thermofoil and previously-lacquered cabinets each want different treatment.
Fronts are sprayed flat and horizontal at the shop, where there is no dust, no draught and no family walking past. Multiple thin coats are built up with sanding between them. Cabinet coatings need real cure time, and this is where they get it.
While the fronts are curing, the face frames and visible box edges are masked and finished in your kitchen to match.
Fronts come back, go onto their original openings, and every hinge is adjusted so the doors sit level and the gaps are even. A kitchen with a beautiful finish and misaligned doors still looks wrong.
We would rather talk you out of a job than do one that will not work. Refinishing is the right answer when the boxes are sound, the layout suits you, and it is genuinely the finish you dislike.
It is the wrong answer if the carcasses are water-damaged or swollen, if the doors are delaminating, or if what you actually want is a different layout, more storage or deeper drawers. No coating fixes a kitchen you have outgrown. In those cases we will say so.
Thermofoil and laminate fronts sit in between. They can be refinished with the right bonding system, but the preparation is more demanding and we will be straight with you about the expected life of the result.
Refinishing also lets you keep something that is hard to buy now. Solid timber doors from the seventies and eighties are often better made than their modern replacements. Stripping and refinishing those is frequently the better result as well as the cheaper one.
It is not, in any meaningful sense. The doors and drawer fronts leave, but the boxes, worktops, sink and appliances all stay in use. You have open shelving for about a week. Most people find it a minor inconvenience rather than a disruption.
Refinishing generally lands at a small fraction of replacement, because you are paying for labour and coatings rather than new cabinetry, new countertops and installation. The exact figure depends on how many doors and drawers you have and what condition they are in, which is what the free walkthrough establishes.
Yes — dark timber to a light painted finish is one of the most common requests, and it transforms a room more than almost anything else. It takes an extra coat or two of primer to block the old tone from bleeding through, which we factor into the estimate.
Not if it is prepared correctly. Chipping is a bonding failure, and bonding failures come from painting over grease or skipping the degloss. That is precisely why our process spends so long on degreasing and sanding before anything is sprayed.
No. Refitting your existing handles is included; if you want new ones, this is the ideal moment. If new handles have a different hole spacing we can fill and re-drill, which is far easier while the fronts are off and being finished anyway.
The inside faces of the doors are finished as standard. Finishing the full interior of the boxes is available and is priced separately, since it roughly doubles the surface area involved.
Your front door is the one surface every visitor looks at from three feet away. We spray it to a factory-smooth finish — including sidelights, transoms, jambs and casing.
Learn moreWalls, ceilings, trim and doors. Full masking, proper cut lines, and floors that are covered before the first can is opened.
Learn moreWisconsin weather finds every gap. We wash, scrape, prime bare wood and re-caulk the joints that actually matter before we paint.
Learn moreNail pops, settling cracks, water damage and old texture that needs matching. Repaired so the patch disappears once it is painted.
Learn moreFurniture, built-ins, mantels, handrails and millwork — stained or painted, with a clear topcoat built up in thin sprayed passes.
Learn moreSend a few photos of your cabinets — a wide shot and a close-up of the worst-worn door. We will tell you honestly whether refinishing is the right move.
(715) 892-8068