Cabinet Refinishing
A sprayed cabinet finish for a fraction of what replacement costs, with doors finished off-site and hardware, hinges and layout kept exactly as they were.
Learn moreThe one surface every guest, every delivery driver and every prospective buyer looks at from three feet away. It deserves better than a brush.
A front door is a small job with an outsized effect. It is the last thing people see before they knock and the first thing they judge the house on, and because they are standing close enough to touch it, every flaw in the finish is visible. Brush marks, roller texture, a run down the panel edge, a bristle stuck in the paint — all of it reads at conversation distance.
Spraying solves that. Atomised finish lands as a continuous film rather than a series of strokes, so it levels out flat and holds an even sheen across the whole face of the door. It is how doors are finished at the factory, and it is the only way to get that look on a door that is already hanging in your house.
We finish the whole entryway, not just the slab: the door itself, both faces, all four edges, the jamb, the casing, and the sidelights and transom if you have them. Finishing the door alone and leaving tired casing around it is a job half done — the contrast draws the eye straight to what you did not do.
Most of the time is preparation. The spraying itself is the quickest part of the day, and it only looks effortless because of what came before it.
Handles, locks, knockers, letter plates, hinges, viewers and kick plates are removed and bagged, not masked around. Masking leaves a ridge of paint at the edge of the tape and a hard line you can feel. Removal is slower and it is the difference between a refinished door and a painted-over one.
Doors collect hand oils, road film and old polish. We wash the surface, sand it back to a uniform key, degloss anything slick, and fill dents and old hardware holes. Any bare or weathered timber gets spot-primed so it does not drink the finish unevenly.
Glass, weatherstripping, brickwork and adjacent siding get masked. Overspray travels further than people expect, so we build proper containment rather than draping a sheet nearby and hoping.
A bonding primer suited to the substrate goes on first, then finish coats are sprayed in thin passes with a light sand between them. Thin and repeated beats thick and once: it is what stops runs on vertical surfaces and gives the finish its depth.
Hardware goes back on, the door is checked for swing and latch, and the glass and threshold are cleaned. We tell you when the finish is safe to touch and when it is fully cured, because those are two different dates.
A brush is the right tool for plenty of painting. It is the wrong tool for a front door, for three reasons.
Texture. A brush leaves ridges in the direction of the stroke. On a wall viewed from across a room, nobody notices. On a door viewed from arm’s length in raking afternoon light, the stroke pattern is the first thing you see.
Sheen consistency. Brushed finish dries at slightly different thicknesses across the panel, and thickness changes how light reflects. You end up with a door that looks patchy at certain angles even though the colour is uniform.
Detail. Panelled and moulded doors have profiles a brush cannot get into without loading the corners. Loaded corners run. Sprayed finish follows the profile at a consistent thickness right into the detail.
The trade-off is honest: spraying takes far more preparation, masking and containment than brushing, which is exactly why most crews would rather brush it and move on. We think the door is worth the extra half day.
Both are options and it depends on the door. Spraying in place means your house is never without a front door, and it is usually right for exterior doors with weatherstripping and multi-point locks. Taking the slab back to our Glendale shop gives us dust-free, temperature-controlled conditions and the best possible finish — we fit a temporary door meanwhile. We will tell you at the walkthrough which one suits your situation.
For an in-place spray, most single doors are done within a day, and the door is closable that evening. Full cure takes longer than dry-to-touch — typically several days — during which we ask you to be gentle with it and avoid slamming or sticking anything to the face.
Yes. Bring us a colour code, a paint chip, or a photo of something you like and we will match it. Dark and highly saturated colours on a sun-facing door are worth a conversation first, because heat absorption affects both the timber and the coating.
Yes, and the preparation matters even more than it does on timber. Both need thorough deglossing and the right bonding primer, or the finish will peel at the edges within a couple of seasons. The spray process itself is the same.
Happy to do those too, and doing them at the same visit is more efficient than booking separately. Garage doors are a larger surface and priced accordingly.
Not if the containment is built properly, which is a large part of what you are paying for. We mask glass, weatherstripping, hardware, brickwork and adjacent siding before any finish is atomised.
A sprayed cabinet finish for a fraction of what replacement costs, with doors finished off-site and hardware, hinges and layout kept exactly as they were.
Learn moreWalls, ceilings, trim and doors. Full masking, proper cut lines, and floors that are covered before the first can is opened.
Learn moreWisconsin weather finds every gap. We wash, scrape, prime bare wood and re-caulk the joints that actually matter before we paint.
Learn moreNail pops, settling cracks, water damage and old texture that needs matching. Repaired so the patch disappears once it is painted.
Learn moreFurniture, built-ins, mantels, handrails and millwork — stained or painted, with a clear topcoat built up in thin sprayed passes.
Learn moreOne clear photo in daylight is usually enough for us to tell you what is involved and give you a realistic range before we even visit.
(715) 892-8068